Saturday, October 30, 2010

Animals sleeping in...

Well, the expectations were high but unfortunately we got disappointed. No sign of the three lions we saw yesterday, only two rhinos and a leopard's bum. After only 5 minutes of being close by the leopard the guide didn't want to follow him when he got up and walked off as there were "other vehicles waiting" and the vegetation was "too dense". What a turn-off. I know a lot of other guides who would have made the effort to make their guests at least get a glimpse of the leopards face, but hey...the vehicles are new so why bother going off-road too much. Well, these (and a lot of other) things will be better at Chitwa Chitwa where I will take off to in approx. 2 hours from now. I might not be able to post any more stuff as they only have an internet access at the reception. We'll see about it, I'll try to keep you updated. :)

New pictures can be found here.

Cheers!

Stefan

The cats are out, part 2...

If I hadn't travelled to Africa a few times before I'd probably have peed in my pants today. Male lions all over the place. And pretty much intruding the comfort zone of most visitors, I would not have been surprised if they had rubbed their bum on the vehicle. Funny enough it was scratching day today. We saw zebra, rhino, buffalo and kudu with itchy bums all over the place. Each of them were rubbing against something, mostly trees or branches. Wildlife comedy.

But when it came to the three lions we saw this morning, everybody just shut up. They were a little scattered over an airfield inside the reserve when one of them started vocalizing. The definition of vocalizing in this case is more like a brutal roar that makes your clothes and the whole vehicle vibrate. This was just CRAZY and strangely exciting!!! We then followed them a long way and they headed straight for a big herd of buffalo. I don't know why we didn't pursue them longer but tomorrow we'll probably know what they were up to.

Will have my last dinner at Nkorho now, til later and cheers!

Stefan

Friday, October 29, 2010

The cats are out!

Still no rain but whoa! what a game drive this morning. First we saw two well fed lionesses (maybe members of the now scattered Styx pride) strolling over to Kruger and then we were really blessed cause the mighty lion coalition had apparently returned out of nowhere. We saw three of the four male lions who took over a big territory in Sabi Sands a couple of months ago wreaking havoc on the prides in the reserve. To accomplish that they have gone through a lot of fights and it shows. Good to see them in such a great condition though resting around a termite mound.

Just to spoil that sighting a little more we saw Tanya, a small but very successful leopardess up in a tree with a duiker she must've killed tonite. Too bad the light conditions weren't as superb as they were last evening. But the perfect picture wouldn't be the perfect one if you could take it every day, would it? I have added the new corresponding pictures to the album, see link in the posting below.

Have a great day, hope you are well & cheers!

Stefan

Coming back "home"...

Dear friends and family,

sorry for the little enthusiasm we had for maintaining the blog but most of the days we were either too busy or too tired to sit ourselves down and write so apologies for this.

Just to give you a short wrap-up of what happened so far:

On Oct. 14th we arrived in JoBurg and headed to Capetown on the same day. Well, not really Cape Town but rather a little smalltown called Fish Hoek where we found the most beautiful B&B called the Tranquility House nestled into the hills of a stunning bay. The owners Ron&Gill are the typical hospitable and ever friendly South Africans I got to appreciate over the last couple of years. But still a wee bit nicer. :) And the breakfast is the best you will ever get in whole South Africa. Not only did they say so, we also did after we had it. :) So we stayed 2 nights there, made a trip to the penguins in Simonstown, the Cape Peninsula, Chapman's Peak and, of course, the Cape's Town itself.

After this we spent one night in Franschhoek in the heart of the winelands, visited the Spier winery and it's cheetah research and breeding centre. Off we went to Plettenberg to stay 2 nights at the Hog Hollow Lodge, another beautiful place in the hills close to the coast. Some whale watching from an aquatic national park and great food at a place called the Lookout directly at the waterfront plus a visit to Tenikwa, a place where the owners Mandy and Len take care of injured and rescued wild animals to either release them into the bush later or keep them in their good hands. Besides they educate their visitors and the locals about wildlife and the numerous conservation issues. Thanks for a great time to both of you!

Our next part of the trip took us to Addo Elephant Park where we stayed in the Kuzuko Lodge located at the northeastern border of the park. Too bad that they had a bad drought for 2 years and lost a lot of their animals. It still was fun to go on the game drives with Riaan, our guide who was very knowledgeable and helpful. This is where we made a "cheetah walk" approaching two very relaxed males on foot. Lions, red hartebeest, zebra, oryx, springbokkies, elands, elephants, rock monitors and many others were also on our sightings list.

After Addo we had quite a bit of driving ahead of us cause we went to Bloemfontein where we paid Kate and Eve a visit. Great dinner at the Green Fig and a couple of hours with my friends was the perfect finish after a long day of driving. The next morning we went to the Cheetah Experience where a group of volunteers (one of which is Eve) take care of orphaned and/or rescued wild animals, especially cats (cheetahs, leopards, lions, caracals, even tigers). It was an interesting thing to do but I always feel a little uncomfortable to see wild animals in an enclosure.

After this we drove off to Centurion located between JoBurg and Pretoria to see Nicolette and Niel, my favorite South African couple. ;) We had dinner at the Godfather, a legendary steak house in Centurion and with full stomachs slept over at their place to drive to Kruger the next day. Made it there just in time to go on a magnificient game drive at Crocodile Bridge main camp (black-backed jackal pups, porcupines, a civet, elephants, you name it...) but had to stay outside afterwards as the park was fully booked that day. The following day, after lots and lots of great sightings we stayed in safari tents in Tamboti, a satellite of Orpen main cam. Very basic with communal showers but a delicious braai (rump steak, gemsquash, butternut). Unfortunately our sleep wasn't too tight thanks to an outrageous thunderstorm haunting the southern Kruger Park that night.

Some more driving around the park the next day and off we went to the Sabi Sands Private Game Reserve covering an area of 65.000 hectares to spend our first night at Chitwa Chitwa Private Game Lodge. If there is a heaven on earth then this place is it. Unbelievable. Stunning. Wow. Extremely hospitable and friendly staff, two danger-seeking rangers called Johan and Harley and the most beautiful accomodation ever. A great leopard on our first game drive besides lots of other good sightings. Time to relax and enjoy. The next day we went off to the neighbouring Nkorho Bush Camp where we stayed 1 more night before it was time to say goodbye to Sandra because she only had 2 weeks of vacation which is why I drove her to Hoedspruit airport. On my way there I got my 2nd speeding ticket within a week for no particular reason and after I returned to the Nkorho Bush Camp I discovered that 5 other tourists had also been ripped off by the police at the same spot. What a nice way to treat your visitors! But anyway...that was yesterday, Sandra has gotten back home safely and I will spend 2 more nights here before I probably spend my last 4 nights back in Chitwa Chitwa. On today's sunset drive I took one of my best leopard pictures ever of a young female resting on a termite mound. Shortly after we arrived the afternoon sun came through the quite cloudy sky and shone directly on her face. It was the perfect situation, everything was right and a dream came true. One more of the many "wows!" during this trip.

So this is it for now, I might get to write a few more lines or add new pictures to the album (link below) but maybe it won't be possible due to the poor internet access in this area. I hope you enjoyed reading the post, pictures can be found here. Time to sleep now, wake up time is at 5am.

Cheers!

Stefan

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Just a few hours to go...

Hectic. Chaos. Mayhem!

Lots of work, nothing packed yet and a pick up at 6:30. Who said the holiday shouldn't be earned properly? Lets go. :)

Cape Town on the horizon.